Coconut milk? Almond? Soy? How alternatives stack up

Once, milk was a drink made by cows. According to the dairy industry, it still is. But the "milk" case of the typical supermarket tells a different story, with a growing array of soy, almond, rice, hemp and, lately, coconut and cashew milks.

While these plant-based products still make up less than 10% of milk sales, they are gaining ground as dairy milk loses it, according to marketing reports.

The latest sign: Starbucks started offering coconut milk nationwide on Feb. 17. Many Dunkin' Donuts locations added almond milk — now the most popular alternative — last fall. Both chains have offered soy for years.

Having so many choices — for vegans and others who do not or cannot drink dairy milk -- is a good thing, many nutrition experts say.

"But the choices also can be confusing," says Dawn Jackson Blatner, a registered dietitian in Chicago with no ties to dairy or plant milk makers. "You really do need to do some homework and look at the labels."

What you will find: all the options except soy milk have much less protein than dairy milk (unless extra has been added); most coconut milk has more saturated fat than even whole dairy milk, and many of the plant products have added sugars — as do flavored dairy milks.

One thing the plant milk makers want you to notice: they often add nutrients. "Most of our plant-based beverages are fortified with 50% more calcium than dairy milk," says Sara Loveday, senior marketing communications manager at Whitewave Foods, maker of Silk soy, almond, coconut and cashew milks.

One thing that dairy milk promoters want you to notice: the ingredient lists on plant milks often are long, including not only added sugars, vitamins and minerals, but thickening agents such as carrageenan and other gums.

"Milk has only two ingredients, milk and vitamin D," says Julia Kadison, CEO of the Milk Processor Education Program (MilkPEP). The program is funded by dairy processors and backed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Kadison says she expects the USDA to keep recommending three daily servings of dairy in upcoming revisions to U.S. dietary guidelines.

Her group is behind the iconic "Got Milk" campaign and the newer "Milk Life" ads. It also recently launched a social media campaign, with the hashtags #getreal and #milktruth, to highlight the differences between dairy and plant milks.

Milk, complete with calcium, protein and other nutrients, is a "whole food that pretty much comes straight out of the cow," Kadison says.

Of course, that's a problem for vegans, who shun all foods from animals, and for others who object to dairy farming practices.

It is better to get calcium and protein from plants than from the "sugary, watery goo" nature intended for calves, says Neal Barnard, president of the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine. The non-profit research and advocacy group promotes vegan diets.

Barnard says he is not troubled that milk alternatives often include extra ingredients. He says the products can provide some variety in plant-based diets. But he does not recommend coconut milk, because of the saturated fat.

A typical product, Silk Original Coconut Milk, has 5 grams of saturated fat per cup, vs. 4.6 grams for whole milk, 3.1 grams for 2% milk and trace amounts for skim. There's little or no saturated fat in almond, cashew and soy milks.

While some trendy diets embrace saturated fat, "the scientific consensus remains that we need to limit saturated fat in our diet for optimum heart health," says Ximena Jimenez, a registered dietitian in Miami and a spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, a professional group. The group's corporate sponsors include The National Dairy Council.

Blatner says consumers who want to try plant milks should consider three things:

• Sugar. Dairy milk has natural sugars. Many of the alternatives have added sugars. But they also come in unsweetened forms — so choose those for your coffee or cereal. You can always add a little sugar if needed.

• Protein. If your milk alternative does not have much, add it elsewhere. If you make your oatmeal with almond milk, stir in some nut butter.

• Fortification. Keep track of how much calcium, vitamin D and other nutrients are in your chosen beverage and adjust the rest of your diet accordingly.

"The bottom line is that just because it comes from plants doesn't mean it has a health halo," she says

Here's how a Starbucks 16-ounce latte looks with three kinds of milk:

• 2% milk: 190 calories, 7 grams fat (4.5 grams saturated), 17 grams sugar, 12 grams protein

• Coconut milk: 140 calories, 8 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 12 grams sugar, 2 grams protein

• Soy milk: 170 calories; 4.5 grams fat (0.5 grams saturated), 17 grams sugar, 9 grams protein

Source: starbucks.com