On a Friday in March, a select group of people gathered in one of the country’s most exclusive communities, the 20,000-acre Santa Lucia Preserve in upper Carmel Valley, for a mushroom hunt.
Simply getting into the preserve is a rare treat. Originally a Spanish land grant from the 1770s, this large open space is one of the greatest pieces of land in Monterey County. With rolling hills, expansive vistas, rare habitats, even a clearing that looks like an enchanted forest, the sites are on par with most national parks. The reason it is so under the radar though, is that this preserve is actually a gated community. Only 300 families pay up to 8 billion dollars to live here, and only they and their invited guests can access it.
In addition to being a dream place to live - there is a golf course, an equestrian center, a fitness center with a pool, and a members club - it’s also the ideal place for a mushroom hunt. Because only 2,000 acres of the preserve is developed wild species grow free. Scientists estimate there are 50 to 100 different mushroom species within the gates.
There are three mushroom hunts in the preserve a year: one is an outing for residents, one is a birthday tradition of one of them, and the third is an event that is part of Gourmetfest, a food and wine festival put on by Relais & Chateaux, a global collection of independently-owned gourmet restaurants and luxury hotels across the world. All the events in the festival offer rare dining experiences from tasting vintage wines from Chateau Margaux to a cooking demonstration by Daniel Boulud. This one was no exception; it was the only time outsiders could partake in this experience in the preserve. And while it cost guests - tickets went for $195 - it was worth it.
The event started in the preserve's members club where Retired Point Lobos Ranger Chuck Bancroft introduced himself and his team of mycologists (a fancy word for biologists who specialize in fungi.) They split the group into three teams and drove everyone to parts of the preserve where mushrooms are likely to grow. This hunt was not a casual experience; participants came armed with shovels for digging mushrooms out of the ground, brushes for cleaning them off, paper bags for storing them safely, and baskets for collecting them. One enthusiast even carried a five-pound book that identified all the species.
Over the next hour or so the groups did everything they could to find as many mushrooms as possible. Some people climbed up steep hills or crawled under trees to get better views. Others risked Poison Oak by venturing into dense terrains. Many dug into the ground to see babies that hadn't yet emerged. It was easy to tell when someone found one; they let out a shriek, and everyone rushed over to see the treasure.
Ranger Chuck helped identify all the mushrooms found in the ground. He looked at features like spores, stems, ridges along the base, veins, warts on the top of the cap, etc. Some he immediately deemed safe to eat. Others he wanted to take back to the clubhouse and study. One team found a lot of amanita velosas, one of the most common mushrooms eaten in California. Another found turkey tails, which Eastern scientists are using in experiments to cure cancer. The third team went home with baskets of fresh Chanterelles.
After the hunt everyone gathered back at the club for a celebratory champagne toast and an elaborate lunch concocted by Relais & Chateaux chefs to honor the event. There was "squab into the woods," smoked duck breast with black truffle, and a doughnut topped with candy cap cognac ice cream. Of course the best course consisted of chanterelles collected fresh from the preserve.
